Eclectic Epicurean

Innovative Food!

Karen Hancock 295-3839 Eclecticepicurean.com

CAJUN AND CREOLE COOKING

According to experts on Cajun and Creole Cooking, Cajun is hearty and rustic country fare and Creole-style food is more upscale. Over the past few years, the terms have been used interchangeably and there has become little or no difference between the two. New Orleans is famous for Bourbon Street, drinking, wild partying, Mardi Gras, Jazz and Zydeco music, and of course, wonderful food. The fabulous restaurants and incomparable food are what make New Orleans an exciting spot worth a visit.

Basic Cajun Roux

A roux is a mixture of fat and flour which is used to thicken sauces, soups, and other dishes. Although it is a classic French technique where butter and flour are cooked just enough to get the raw taste out, the Cajuns and Creoles have taken it a step further using it not only to thicken, but also to flavor. The flavor and richness of each dish changes according to the color of the roux.

1 cup fat (lard, vegetable oil, shortening) 1 cup flour (more or less)

Place the fat in a skillet and turn the heat to medium. Whisk in the flour and stir until smooth. At this time, check the consistency: it should form a smooth paste that is neither runny nor clumpy or grainy. Since the absorbency of flour varies greatly, as does the body of oils, it is impossible to give an exact proportion of flour to oil—after a while you’ll be able to guess with greater accuracy. If the roux is too thin, stir in a bit more flour; it if is too thick, stir in a little oil until it reaches the proper consistency. With the roux over medium heat, stir constantly, scraping the entire bottom of the pan so that the roux browns evenly. When the roux becomes light brown or peanut butter colored, it is considered a light roux; when it turns red –brown, it is a medium roux, and when it is very dark (almost black but not quite), it is a dark roux. You must remove the roux from the pan immediately when it reaches the correct color or it will continue to darken. If you get black flecks or burnt parts on the bottom, throw it out and start over; there is no fix for a burnt roux. Making a roux will turn you into a patient person!

Basic Cajun “Trinity”

Onions, green peppers, and celery are considered the “trinity” and are included in many of the Classic Cajun dishes. Garlic is also prevalent, so it is a good idea to keep plenty of these ingredients on hand.

Beignets (ben-yays)

Café du Monde, a famous spot in the French Quarter, sells nothing but light ethereal Beignets right out of the deep fryer (covered with enough powdered sugar to cover any dark outfit you might be wearing!) and their chicory coffee, cafe au lait, hot chocolate, and soft drinks. Luckily it's open 24 hours because it's always crowded. You may also purchase beignet mix, coffee, and Café du Monde memorabilia.

1 cup lukewarm water

1/3 cup powdered milk

2 tablespoons shortening

2 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon dry yeast

1 egg

3 cups flour

1 teaspoon salt

vegetable oil, for deep frying

powdered sugar

Mix the water, milk, shortening, sugar, and dry yeast; mix in the egg. Using a dough hook, add the flour and salt until the mixture is a very soft dough.

Let rise until doubled in bulk. Punch down and knead gently on floured board. Roll to 1/4 inch thickness and cut into 2-inch squares with a pizza cutter. Cover and let rise again 30-45 minutes.

Drop squares into hot oil, turning once when golden brown on bottom side. Drain on paper towels and dust with sifted powdered sugar. Serve warm.

Blackened Catfish

Paul Prudhomme made Blackened Redfish famous, but redfish is sometimes hard to find. Good substitutes are catfish, pompano, salmon, or red snapper. Make sure your fillets are no thicker than ¾”. My recipe uses a little olive oil, as it keeps the butter from burning.

6 Servings

Heat a large cast-iron skillet over very high heat until it is beyond the smoking stage and you see white ash in the skillet bottom (the skillet cannot be too hot for this dish), at least 10 minutes.

Meanwhile melt the butter with the olive oil in a skillet; set aside. Dip the fillets in the skillet so that both sides are well-coated. Sprinkle seasoning mix generously and evenly on both sides of the fillets, patting it in by hand. Place in the hot skillet and pour 1 teaspoon melted butter on top of each fillet. Cook, uncovered, over the same high heat until the underside looks charred, about 2 minutes (the time will vary according to the fillet's thickness and the heat of the skillet). Turn the fish over and again pour 1 teaspoon butter on top; cook until fish is done, about 2 minutes more. Repeat with remaining fillets. Serve each fillet while piping hot with the remaining butter.

Blackened Creole Seasoning

My step-daughter, Sonna Furtick, has been using this spice mix to blacken everything from shrimp to scallops to fish for years. It is not only easy to make, it's much better than any store-bought variety I have found.

Mix together thoroughly and store in an airtight container.

Brennan's Bananas Foster

The story of Bananas Foster, probably the best known Cajun dessert according to Brennan's web site, http://www.brennansneworleans.com is this: “In the 1950's, New Orleans was the major port of entry for bananas shipped from Central and South America. Owen Edward Brennan challenged his talented chef, Paul Blangé, to include bananas in a new culinary creation - Owen's way of promoting the imported fruit. Simultaneously, Holiday Magazine had asked Owen to provide a new recipe to appear in a feature article on Brennan's.
In 1951, Chef Paul created Bananas Foster. The scrumptious dessert was named for Richard Foster, who, as chairman, served with Owen on the New Orleans Crime Commission, a civic effort to clean up the French Quarter. Richard Foster, owner of the Foster Awning Company, was a frequent customer of Brennan's and a very good friend of Owen. Little did anyone realize that Bananas Foster would become an international favorite and is the most requested item on the restaurant's menu. Thirty-five thousand pounds of bananas are flamed each year at Brennan's in the preparation of its world-famous dessert. This is their recipe:

4 Servings

Combine the butter, sugar, and cinnamon in a flambé pan or skillet. Place the pan over low heat on top of the stove, and cook, stirring, until the sugar dissolves. Stir in the banana liqueur, then place the bananas in the pan. When the banana sections soften and begin to brown, carefully add the rum. Continue to cook the sauce until the rum is hot, them tip the pan slightly to ignite the rum (or light if not using a gas stove). When the flames subside, lift the bananas out of the pan and place four pieces over each portion of ice cream and serve immediately.

Cajun Shrimp and Andouille Gumbo

Gumbo is certainly one of the most well-known Cajun dishes; it is a meal in itself when served with rice, and can contain chicken, seafood, ham, tasso—almost anything. It can also be made spicy or mild. Many people are afraid of gumbo because it often contains okra—one of the most-dreaded vegetables on this earth. All gumbo does not contain okra, which not only acts as a vegetable but also as a thickening agent in the stew; you may add filé powder just before serving and leave out the okra. This version, done in the slow cooker, takes about 20 minutes prep time and 5 minutes to cook the shrimp just before serving.

8 servings

1/4 cup vegetable oil

1/3 cup flour (more may be needed)

1/2 pound andouille sausage, cooked and sliced

1 16 ounce package frozen cut okra

1 cup chopped onion

1 cup chopped green bell pepper

1 cup chopped celery

2 cloves garlic, minced

1/4 teaspoon cayenne, (more if you want spicy gumbo)

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/2 teaspoon salt, (more or less to taste)

2 14 oz. cans diced tomatoes, undrained (I run them briefly through the blender)

1 cup water

1 pound medium raw shrimp, peeled, deveined, and tails removed

Heat the oil in a small skillet over medium heat; whisk in enough flour to make a roux. Cook the roux over medium heat, stirring constantly, until it turns a deep red brown. Place the roux in a 4 quart crockpot.

Add the remaining ingredients except shrimp, stir, then cook on low for 7-9 hours. 20 minutes before serving, stir in the shrimp and continue cooking for 20 minutes.

Serve over rice.

Cajun Red Beans and Rice

According to numerous Cajun sources, Red Beans and Rice is the official dish served on Monday, and it is the special featured on most New Orleans restaurants on that day also; it is also the official comfort food to many who grew up in New Orleans. This dish is a meal in itself, tastes just as good a day or two after it's made, and is an inexpensive way to feed a big crowd. Incidentally, this dish is also good on days other than Monday, especially on days when it's cold outside.

This version, adapted to the slow cooker to free the cook up for other interests, is very little hands-on work and has lots of wonderful flavor. You can adjust the fire by adding more or less Tabasco, cayenne pepper, or by using milder smoked sausage such as kielbasa. Don’t let the long list of ingredients scare you—it goes together very fast.

12 Servings

1 pound dried red beans

10 cups water, (or more if needed)

6 meaty ham hocks, (3 1/2 to 4 pounds)

3 bay leaves

1 teaspoon white pepper

1 teaspoon dried thyme leaves

1 teaspoon dried whole oregano

1 teaspoon dried summer savory

1 teaspoon cayenne, (more if you like it spicier; less if you are a wimp)

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

1 tablespoon Tabasco pepper sauce

1 pound andouille sausage, cut into 3/4" slices (substitute Chaurice or any spicy smoked sausage)

2 1/2 cups chopped celery

2 cups finely chopped onions

2 cups finely chopped green bell peppers

4 cloves garlic, finely chopped

salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

6 cups cooked white rice

3 chopped green onions

3 tablespoons fresh parsley, finely chopped

Sort through the beans and discard any broken or ugly ones and any dirt. Rinse well and place in the slow cooker with the water. Turn to high and cook 4-6 hours. (I usually do this step overnight).

After the beans are almost tender, add the ham hocks, bay leaves, white pepper, thyme, oregano, summer savory, cayenne, black pepper, and Tabasco. Continue cooking on high, adding more water if necessary for at least two hours.

Meanwhile, brown the sausage chunks in a large skillet; add them to the bean mixture with the celery, onions, green peppers, and garlic.

Remove 1 cup of the beans and mash well; stir them into the mixture.

After the mixture has cooked on high for 2-4 hours, remove the ham hocks. Take any meat off the hocks and return to the mixture. Taste for seasoning, adding salt, pepper, and Tabasco to taste; you also may have to add a little water. Turn to low and cook until it's time to eat.

To serve, place a mound of rice in a bowl, top with beans, and sprinkle with the green onions and parsley.

Cajun Tartar Sauce

Add more cayenne or a few drops of Tabasco if you want your sauce to have a bite to it. This is great served with fresh shrimp and crab, grilled fish, or Natchitoches Meat Pies

1 large egg

1 tablespoon minced garlic

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley leaves

2 tablespoons chopped green onions

1/2 cup vegetable oil

1/2 cup olive oil

1/2 teaspoon cayenne

1 tablespoon Creole mustard

1 teaspoon salt

Place the egg, garlic, lemon juice, parsley, and green onions in a food processor and puree for 15 seconds. With the processor running, pour the oil through the feed tube in a steady stream. Add the cayenne, mustard, and salt and pulse once or twice to blend.

Classic Cajun Bread Pudding with Whiskey Sauce

Most Cajun meals include fresh French bread, but it is not often that a family can eat an entire loaf before it gets stale. This pudding was invented because thrifty cooks were constantly trying to find ways to use up that leftover stale French bread. It has become a most beloved dessert and is available at almost every restaurant in New Orleans.

12 Servings

6 cups French bread, (extremely stale) cut into 1" cubes

1 cup heavy cream

2 cups milk *see note

3/4 cup sugar

3 eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla

1 teaspoon cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg

1/3 cup raisins

Sauce

1 cup heavy cream

1 1/2 teaspoons cornstarch

1 tablespoon water

3 tablespoons sugar

1/4 cup bourbon whiskey

Place the bread cubes in a large bowl. Mix the milk and cream; pour over the bread cubes and let soak until the liquid is absorbed. In a separate bowl, mix the remaining ingredients and blend until smooth; mix into the bread mixture. Pour into a greased 8" or equivalent shallow casserole dish. Bake at 350° until browned and the custard is set, 45-50 minutes. Serve warm or room temperature with the Bourbon sauce.

Whiskey sauce: Place the cream in a small saucepan over medium heat, and bring to a boil. Whisk cornstarch and water together and add to cream while whisking. Bring to a boil. Whisk and let simmer for a few seconds, taking care not to burn the mixture on the bottom. Remove from heat.

Stir in the sugar and the bourbon. Add more sugar and/or bourbon to taste. Cool to room temperature.

*Note: if your bread is light or not very stale, reduce the milk to 1 cup.

Corn Maque Choux

According to Paul Prudhomme, every Cajun family has its own recipe for Corn Maque Choux; his family always ate it with rice and gravy. The following recipe is an adaptation of his family recipe.

12 Servings

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/4 cup vegetable oil

7 cups fresh corn cut off the cob, or frozen corn kernels (if you absolutely must!)

1 cup very finely chopped onions

1/4 cup sugar

1 teaspoon white pepper

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper

2 1/4 cups water

2 teaspoons granular beef or chicken bouillon

4 tablespoons butter

1 cup evaporated lowfat milk

2 eggs

3 medium Roma tomatoes, diced

Combine the butter and oil in a large skillet over medium heat; when the butter has melted, add the corn, onions, sugar, white pepper, salt, and cayenne pepper. Turn the heat to high and cook until the corn is tender and starch starts to form a crust on the pan bottom, about 12-14 minutes, stirring occasionally, and stirring more as the mixture starts sticking. Mix the water and bouillon; gradually stir in 1 cup of the mixture, scraping the pan bottom to remove crust as you stir. Continue cooking 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the butter, stir till melted, and cook about 5 minutes, stirring frequently and scraping pan bottom as needed. Reduce heat to low and cook about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, then add 1/4 cup of the broth and cook an additional 15 minutes, stirring frequently. Add the remaining 1 cup broth and cook about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in 1/2 cup of the milk and continue cooking until most of the liquid is absorbed, about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat.

In a bowl, combine the eggs and remaining 1/2 cup evaporated milk. Beat with a metal whisk until frothy; add to the corn, stirring well. Stir in the fresh tomatoes; serve immediately.

Crawfish Étouffée

Étouffée means "smothered." The idea of this dish is to "smother" the crawfish with the wonderful sauce. This is not a dish that is long-simmered, so it is perfect for a week-night dinner as it takes only about 30 minutes from start to finish. Shrimp can be used interchangeably with the crawfish.

8 Servings

1/2 cup vegetable oil

1/2 to 3/4 cup flour

4 tablespoons butter

1 small yellow onion, chopped

2 green onions, greens only, chopped

1 red bell pepper, chopped

2 cloves garlic, chopped

1 16 oz. can diced tomatoes, blended if desired

2 tablespoons celery, chopped

2 tablespoons fresh parsley, chopped

1/2 teaspoon dried basil

1 bay leaf

3 cups crawfish tail meat from boiled crawfish

1/2 to 1 teaspoon Louisiana-style hot sauce

salt and freshly ground pepper

4 cups cooked long grain rice

1/4 cup green onions, very finely chopped, for garnish

Heat the oil in a large deep skillet over medium-high heat. Add enough of the flour to make a thick paste and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture turns medium-brown. Add the butter, allowing it time to melt and mix in.

Add the yellow onion and sauté until it's barely brown around the edges. Add the green onions, bell pepper, and garlic, and cook until tender. Add the tomato and 2 cups of water. Bring to a boil, them add the celery, parsley, basil, and bay leaf. Simmer for 10 minutes.

Add the crawfish tails, Louisiana hot sauce, and salt and pepper to taste, and simmer for 10-12 minutes. Serve over rice and sprinkle with the finely chopped green onion.

Grillades and Grits (gree-yads)

This classic Cajun dish has traditionally been served as a brunch dish, but I think it is good served anytime. I have trouble finding veal in Utah, so I have always used beef round. It reminds me of a Cajun version of Swiss steak or country fried steak, and although it is traditionally served over grits, it is delicious over mashed potatoes or rice.

6 Servings

2 pounds veal or beef round, about 1/2-inch thick

3/4 cup flour

1 1/2 teaspoons Cajun seasoning

1/2 cup vegetable oil

1 cup chopped onions

1/2 cup chopped celery

1/2 cup chopped green pepper

1 16 oz. can tomatoes

1 tablespoon chopped parsley

3 cups water

2 teaspoons granular beef bouillon

Trim the meat, cut into serving sized pieces, and pound with a meat mallet.

Mix the flour with the Cajun seasoning. Dip each piece into the flour mixture.

Heat 2 tablespoons of the vegetable oil in a large frying pan; brown the meat in the oil, adding more as necessary. Remove the pieces as they are browned. Add the remaining oil and flour to the pan and whisk until smooth, scraping up any of the crispy bits on the bottom of the pan. Add the onions, celery, and green pepper and stir until they are limp. Add the tomatoes (I run them through the processor to eliminate big chunks), and stir in the water. Add the meat to the mixture, bring to a boil, then turn the heat to low, cover and simmer until the meat is tender, about 1 1/2 hours. Serve over hot grits.

Crockpot Instructions: Proceed as directed above, only place the food in a crockpot; stir, then cover and cook on low 5-7 hours.

N'awlins Seasoning (with salt)

Gwen McKee has written a delightful little cookbook entitled The Little New Orleans Cookbook, which I have been using for several years. The recipes are down-to-earth, simple, and most importantly, delicious. This seasoning mix comes from her book, which I highly recommend for those of you who plan to do a lot of Cajun cooking.

1 tablespoon garlic powder

1 tablespoon onion powder

2 tablespoons thyme

2 tablespoons bay leaves, crushed

1 tablespoon parsley flakes

1 teaspoon basil leaves

2 tablespoons black pepper

1 tablespoon cayenne pepper

1 teaspoon Accent, (optional)

1 cup salt, (or light salt)

Mix all ingredients in a quart jar, cover tightly, and shake.

Natchitoches Meat Pies

(Pronounced NACK-uh-tush)

These spicy fried pies originated in the 1700's in Natchitoches, Louisiana where street vendors chanted, "Hotta meat pies! Get your hotta meat pies right here!" The street vendors are gone, but the town holds a festival in September every year in honor of their famous meat pies.

New Orleans has adapted these pies and they appear on many of the restaurant menus throughout the city. The pies make great appetizers when made half size, and they can be made ahead and frozen. Reheat in a 350° oven just until heated.

Makes 24 pies

Filling

3/4 pound lean ground beef, (not extra lean)

3/4 pound ground pork

1 cup finely chopped onions

1/4 cup finely chopped green onions

1/2 cup chopped green pepper

1/2 cup chopped celery

1/2 teaspoon salt (more to taste if Cajun seasoning has no salt)

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 teaspoons Cajun seasoning, (less for milder pies)

1/4 teaspoon cayenne

1 tablespoon garlic, finely chopped

1 tablespoon flour

1 cup beef broth, (bouillon is okay)

Crust

4 cups flour

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 cup lard, or vegetable shortening

1 egg

1 to 1 1/4 cups milk

oil for deep frying

Brown the ground beef and pork in a large skillet, stirring to break up the bits. Add the onions, peppers, celery, salt, pepper, Cajun seasoning, and cayenne. Cook the mixture over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are wilted; add the garlic and cook 1 minute longer. Sprinkle the flour over the mixture and stir to incorporate. Whisk in the beef broth and bring the mixture to a boil, stirring constantly until the mixture thickens slightly. Remove from the heat and cool completely.

Crust: Combine the dry ingredients in a large mixer bowl. Cut in the lard or shortening until it resembles small peas. Mix the egg and milk. Add to the dry ingredients and mix until dough just comes together. Don't overwork the dough; it will be quite stiff.

Cut the dough in half then roll it out to 1/4 inch thickness on a floured cloth. Cut into 3 inch circles and stack. Take each circle and roll out to 1/8" thickness, between 5 and 6 inches.

Assembly: Place 2 heaping tablespoons of the cooled mixture onto each circle. With your finger wet the edge with a little water, fold over and crimp with a fork. Set aside on parchment until ready to fry.

Heat a deep fryer with oil to 360°. Fry the meat pies in small batches until golden brown on each side. Serve with Cajun Tartar Sauce.

Roast Beef Poor Boys

po·boy (pō'boi')

Poor Boy sandwiches are as classic to New Orleans as gumbo and blackened redfish. According to an article in the LA times, October 2004,the po' boy legend begins with two brothers, Bennie and Clovis Martin, bakers and former streetcar drivers. In 1929, during a months-long streetcar strike in New Orleans, they handed out free sandwiches made from leftovers to the striking drivers. As one would approach their restaurant near the French Market, one brother would yell to the other, "Here comes another poor boy." The name stuck and the sandwiches, which later cost 10 cents apiece, became so popular that carhops would carry orders to customers parked blocks away when the restaurant's lot overflowed.

The thing that differentiates a Poor boy from submarines, heros, and grinders is the bread. G.H. Leidenheimer Baking Co., New Orleans' best-known bread supplier, daily sells about 50,000 loaves of their light, crisp-crusted French bread to po' boy proprietors. A standard 32-inch loaf, which has a distinctive alligator-skin pattern on the crust, can be cut into three or four sandwiches. The bakery makes as many as four deliveries a day to some customers, in vans emblazoned with the slogan "Sink ya teeth into a piece of New Orleans cultcha — a Leidenheimer po-boy!"

Although the roast beef poor boy is the original, they now are filled with oysters, shrimp, catfish, and other delights. When ordering, be sure to order yours “dressed” if you want mayo, lettuce, and tomatoes.

8 Servings

2 to 3 pounds round of beef, trimmed

1/2 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper

1 teaspoon kosher salt

2 stalks celery, coarsely chopped

1 carrot, coarsely chopped

1/2 large onion, coarsely chopped

6 cloves garlic, chopped

1 bay leaf

1/4 teaspoon dried thyme

1/4 teaspoon dried marjoram

1/4 teaspoon black peppercorns

1 tablespoon granular beef bouillon

1 cup water

2 tablespoons flour

1/2 cup water